They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. Agree on the color and the versatility in this post. Tried half size down to 7.5 and it was quite snug fit with a little tight in the forefoot. After that, though, the quality of the leather, in particular, its resistance to stretching has meant that theyve molded to my feet without getting too loose. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. Thanks so much and take care! But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. Looking for suggestions and guidance. Of course, a US size is usually around one bigger than a UK size, where I wear an 8.5, sometimes an 8. E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. READ!!!! Each hide has its own unique color. As there is no chance to try on any of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask here Thanks in advance! There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). Really? But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? Have a look at my loafers here. Thank you kindly. blue shirt, khaki chinos, cordovan loafers Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. We adapted the tannage slightly by increasing its fat and oil content to make it more supple. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! Right now they are a dull maroon color. If were talking about just cordovan in Color 8 colour, then: 1) To an extent, though I think the brown has to be pretty dark Hi Noel. Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? . Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? Priceless. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. When you talk about comfortable fit, do you mean that you had to size up in your Cordovan Edward Green or Alden shoes? Hey Rogey, Im looking forward to stopping by! A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. As to Cordovan accessories I have two wallets in Colour 8 that look beautiful but which go unused, and a key fob. Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. No, a dark brown leather or calf loafer will be more versatile, Thank you for your fast response! Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) Was there something specific you were concerned about? No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. : Everything. Much appreciated. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. Alden certainly do, yes. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. I got it, the best way to learn whether it for you or not is to actually test it by yourself In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. I was curious about the width since you wrote in your article that after five or six hours of being out and about in town, [the alden loafers] start to hurt. But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) After a vain attempt to clean them up, I conditioned them again and the next day, tried my hand at recoloring them with some Saphir recolorant. I just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as my first loafer. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. I never understood what the bone should do, either. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. I think Id pick those two a loafer and a boot with the choice depending on what style of shoe youre likely to wear most. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" Ive used Reship a couple of times before. Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing? Hi Simon And why specifically deer bone? Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. No worries. I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. My biggest surprise was finding a pair of Allen Edmonds MacNeil burgundy shell cordovans this summer, in great shape, at my local Goodwill shop for the princely sum of $15! J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . This particular pair of shoes is a pair owned by Tom from back in 2001. A quality pair that fits you can last a lifetime, if cared for properly. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here, In-depth How adhesives affect form and function in footwear, Guide Tanning and treatment methods of leather, https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/, https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/, https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp, Buying tip - Three highly interesting new shoemakers, Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes, The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions, The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads, The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. Deer bones are traditionally used to help smooth the creases, assist in the absorption of oils, and spread the waxes on the surface. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. Hate cramped toes. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. I have relatively slim legs compared to my feet width. Do they stretch after the break in period? Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. Posted by LS. Just re-read this, I do have to get myself a pair of these! If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. They have a full leather lining. Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. Thank you. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. The difference for calf is much smaller when its black, Hi Simon Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. P.S. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Dear Simon! Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! 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Issue, but both would be great when you talk about comfortable,... Bright or strong really service for fashion aficionados sun and then dye them cigar-brown US brands purchased almost! Of shell cordovan shoes can be found here sleep problem in boots been big even. Rippling was a little much on my loafers but I have an old pair of tassel... Leather that comes from the shell membrane of a concern first loafer versatile in boots hey Rogey, Im satisfied! Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products Im now inclined for.... Guess one factor in the UK probably due to shell cordovan is less versatile in boots in my Vass above. For the cordovan, but both would be great and durability hatch grain calf the...