I've used it myself to line camera boxes I've made, and it works really great, and can be laser cut.I don't know about "tool box foam" as you point out, but sometimes it's well worth it to spend a few bucks extra to protect your tools instead of taking the cheap route. Do not attempt to vector cut thicker materials, it is a fire hazard. Im finding it difficult to “be nice” posting. I'm sure it has improved a lot and I need to take another look. When cutting foam, I tune the settings so the foam is just barely cut through on the bottom. Can you use a Lidar image to create a template to cut tool silhouettes? Also, so much of the interlocking feature was cut away that the pieces didn't hold together at all. This material works great. Too bad that hand tools tend to have complex shapes. Pthalates are (or at least were) widely used in PVC. x 12 in. x ~1/4 in.) A quick and dirty test layout doesn't take too long and you can move the outlines around in Illustrator to fine tune everything. You have three options: 1) Get out your ruler/tape/calipers and start measuring. :-). I've found two tools that make it easier to trace. Always Turn on the Filter and the Air pump before starting a cut. Epilog's newest laser machine combines our top-of-the-line technology and our latest features in a compact desktop format. I went to get some a few weeks ago, but the distributor was out of it, and referred me back to their distributor (Fast Cap) to get it, but I haven't had the time. It's a bit of an art. I will definitely do some knife work as part of the experiments so non-laser-enabled folks such as yourself can get something out of it. Which ever way you make your outlines, be sure to check the outlines before cutting foam. No rocket surgery here. Also remember that having to laminate the stuff means that its true cost has doubled, even ignoring the cost of the spray adhesive and the time to glue it together. The second is an old school drafting lead holder (photo above). With regular, or even occasional, use both those issues shouldn't be that big of a concern though.I am based in Sweden but I was living in the US when the need for it arose, I'll look through my resources and see if I can find the places I looked for it. You're stuff looks amazing and I'm sure it will inspire people, so I wanted to let them know about a possible option for materials. Many of the tools have precisions surfaces or are somewhat fragile. Making RetroTech: a Steampunk / Clock / Gear Font: Want to add a RetroTech feel to your laser engraving or graphic work? The cork covered tile was hard to cut without getting excessive charring of the cork layer. The "Reset" Button will bring your job back to its beginning. I've tried making my own solder paste stencil using 4 mil polyester (for overhead projection slides) on a 45W Epilog laser cutter at the local TechShop maker space. This material comes rolled up (like the WalMart PE camping pad). thick EVA foam is available at craft stores (locally here in the SF Bay Area at Michael's or JoAnn's). Aug 24, 2015 - Buy 250 Medical and Health Bold Line Icons by vectorsmarket on GraphicRiver. Last modified 01/25/2015. 3) Set the tool directly on your flatbed scanner, scan it, convert it to vector, and tweak as above. There's a class of plasticizers called pthalates that are particularly controversial right now with respect to their health effects. (585mm) square. can have a big impact on how a laser cuts on any given day. However, it's too thin to be cost effective for tool box inserts. Discover (and save!) As you say, outgassing is a problem with some plastics. I have a vague memory of not finding brand name Plastazote in the US, but rather some domestic analogue. As you can see from the pic above, trying to use the interlocked tiles resulted in an ugly seam in the middle of the drawer. It worked okay functionally. 925.681.2326 Option 1 or 866.386.6571. or Best Offer. More about the craft foam in a later step. But if you've got high quality or precision tools you want to keep in good condition, it's worth the effort. Indeed, PVC is like the devil. That way I know I've put in the minimum amount of energy and thus minimized the chances of excessive "melt back" away from the centerline of the kerf. The final check is a full size cardboard cutout. (~610mm x ~610mm x ~13mm) gray EVA interlocking tiles, 4 for $10. Plastazote isn't very expensive either, I paid about $40 with shipping for about 10 square foot of half inch thick foam. The best way to check is to cut some corrugated cardboard test pieces. Having access to the lasers and other expensive equipment I couldn't justify owning (let alone afford to buy!) At TechShop we have 45 watt and 60 watt Epilog CO2 lasers with 24” x 18” tables. Free shipping on many items | Browse your favorite brands ... Epilog Laser Legend 32 for parts. This sounds easy too, but be prepared for a lot of fussing with the scan before it will convert to a usable vector outline. (~610mm x ~1825 mm x ~8mm) roll is $8. But if you can't achieve results you are happy with by adjusting the energy as above, you might try multiple passes where you lower the focus (raise the work) between each pass. Thanks for the kind words and the comment. I chose a carpet covered tile and a cork covered tile. The last part is the main purpose of this Instructable, but we need to get the first two straight before we can start zapping foam. on Introduction. When Most stuff sold as "tool box foam" is polyethylene (PE) or ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) and is way too expensive. Also, since the material comes rolled up, you need to flatten it out before laser cutting it into pieces to fit the laser. I couldn't find a source online for any grade of 1/2" Plastizote that was less than ~$7/sg. $900.00. But, it's an extra step, the glue line takes away from the clean look of the drawer liner, and it was a pain to keep all the ends pressed together while the glue dried (I used 3M blue painters tape to help). They have 2 ft. x 2 ft. x 1/2 in. I think it might be ideal for your application, or for someone who does not have access to a laser cutter, but can use a utility knife and peel down the layers for depth. ft. Anyway, thanks for the reminder about Inkscape. I agree that for particularly delicate instruments or those that are hard to clean, it's best to err on the side of caution and get pay up for foam that does not outgas. It's also unnecessary for anyone who has access to the Epilog lasers at TechShop SJ or their equivalent. Historically, it's been the haze that ends up on your inner surface of your car windshield after it's cooked out of the PVC dashboard. Beyond the general rules that slower speed or higher power takes more material and low frequencies are good for materials that char while high frequencies are good for things that melt, its largely a matter of trying some combinations to see what you get. You could layer up the blue PE camping pad for less than that, but saving the hassle if probably worth it. Maybe Inkscape is the answer. It's a standard practice aimed at preventing tools from being left some place they shouldn't be and subsequently causing "foreign object damage." I hope you find this as useful as I found it fun to do. x ~12 in. Lately I'm doing more machining at TechShop SJ. To try to salvage the drawer insert even with the non-interlocking mess, I used some Beacon FabriTac to glue the ends of the foam pieces together. The first is a FastCap Long Nose Pattern Marker (promo video above). Throwing away some scrap cardboard or scratch paper beats a miscut $10 piece of foam any day. If you use the drafting lead, go over the line with a dark pen before you scan it to get better contrast. All Brother Service Centers. Since all my projects get out of hand almost immediately, I also did some foam inserts for one of the tool boxes in my home shop. I received the 30mm Kaizen foam yesterday. A collector on the lookout for something truly special will want to check out some custom and limited-edition models, like the Gibson Limited Edition SJ-200 Vine Super Jumbo Acoustic Guitar. I didn't really think the Kaizen foam would work best for you, but more for people who are not neat one of the shops where you can use the tools, like me, who may want to do something similar using a razor knife rather than a laser cutter. Anybody have experience cutting foam with a lower power laser - say 20 watts? If it turns out I want to use a lot more of this material, I plan to try some 3M VHB transfer adhesive. 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